For Polish visitors to Rome, the Church of Quo Vadis is a site of particular significance. Inside there is a replica of Jesus’ footprints in stone, a reminder of the legendary meeting between the Apostle Peter and Christ. This encounter inspired Polish Nobel laureate Henryk Sienkiewicz to write his acclaimed novel Quo Vadis, which has since been adapted multiple times for film.
The church is located along the historic Roman road known as the Via Appia. Once stretching over 300 miles and nearly 4,5 yards wide, only fragments remain today. Construction of the Via Appia, now called the Appian Way, began in 312 BCE under the direction of the censor Appius Claudius, from whom the road takes its name.
Poles often visit this church, drawn by its connection to Sienkiewicz and his Nobel Prize-winning novel “Quo Vadis”. While in Rome, Sienkiewicz was captivated by this church, and his guide through the city was fellow Pole and painter Henryk Siemiradzki.
In Sienkiewicz’s novel, Peter and his companion Nazarius are leaving Rome when Peter sees a mysterious figure approaching in a radiant light that Nazarius cannot see. Peter stands as if transfixed, his face revealing a mix of awe and emotion, before he falls to his knees as though in the presence of Christ. In a powerful gesture, Peter asks, “Quo vadis, Domine?” (“Where are you going, Lord?”). Christ’s reply—that He is returning to Rome to be crucified again due to Peter’s departure from the city—strikes Peter deeply, moving him to remain faithful to his mission and return to Rome, though fully aware he would face martyrdom.
Legend holds that Jesus left footprints in stone at the site of this meeting. A small chapel was initially erected here, later replaced by a church.
The church is small and single-naved, with its current façade dating back to the 17th century. A section of the ancient road, the “black road,” runs through the middle of the building. At its center, the floor displays a replica of Jesus’ footprints, measuring 27.5 centimeters in length. The original impression of the footprints is preserved in the nearby Church of St. Sebastian. To the left of the entrance, a bronze bust of Henryk Sienkiewicz honors his memory.